Hiking Trails - Goodsir Pass and Ottertail Fire Road - Days 10 and 11

This post belongs to the first of a series of hikes, which is an 11-day backpacking trip from Kananaskis, along the Continental Divide to Yoho National Park. Today’s post covers the tenth and eleventh day.

Helmut Falls to McArthur Creek Campground
13km – intermediate – 6 hours – closest town: Field, BC
128.8km (80.5 miles) from beginning at Watridge Creek
Helmet Creek Trail Junction – 1731m (5770 ft)

The trail down the valley starts near the Helmet warden cabin located across Helmet Creek from the campsite. After a distance of 600 metres the trail branches to the left to go to Goodsir Pass. When looking back down the trail, there will be good views of Helmet Falls. The hiker will climb steadily to the summit on a moderate slope, a distance of 4 km. Goodsir Pass (2,210 m (7,249')) is in a pleasant, flower-filled larch meadow, and offers fine views of Mt. Goodsir and the rest of the Ottertail Range in Yoho National Park. Midway through the pass is the boundary for Yoho National Park. Yoho in the Cree language means “awe”.

[1-Larches] These trees are the only conifers that shed their needles every fall to conserve energy, yet before falling off the larch needles turn golden in colour.




[2-Larch with autumn colour]


[3]

The Goodsir Towers are the tallest mountains in Yoho National Park in the Ottertail Range at 3,510 m (11,700 feet). Mount Goodsir or The Goodsirs is made up of the two Goodsir Towers (Goodsir Towers (North Tower) and Goodsir Towers (South Tower))and Sentry Peak being the third peak to the right in the photo.

Sir James Hector, who named the Goodsir Towers, had studied medicine in Edinburgh, Scotland. John Goodsir (1814-1867) was Hector’s anatomy instructor at the university, one of the first to research cell life. Hector knew that John had a brother who was also a medical doctor. Hector named the twin high peaks after the Goodsirs. The north tower is slightly lower (3524 m) while the south tower (3562 m) is the highest peak in the vicinity (and also the tenth highest peak in the Canadian Rockies). Goodsir Pass commands an outstanding view of these twinned towered, and not often climbed, peaks.

[4] Sir James Hector (1834-1907) was a predominant explorer in the Canadian Rockies and a member of the famous Palliser Expedition of 1857-1860. His role, besides exploring and naming mountains, was that of geologist and surgeon (he studied medicine in Edinburgh, Scotland). Hector will always be remembered for the incident that occurred along the Great Divide near Lake Louise. Hector got kicked so hard by his horse that his comrades gave him up for dead. It was only after a significant amount of time had passed that Hector recovered. To commemorate the incident, the pass is now called Kicking Horse Pass. Hector is also remembered by a beautiful mountain. Mount Hector (3394 metres) has the distinct reputation of containing one of the greatest ski runs in North America.

[5-near the pass]



Goodsir Pass (2175 m or 7,250 ft) is long and broad, filled with wildflowers and rocks.





Long switchbacks descend to Ottertail River at 4855 ft – mile 88.2. Hikers are to note there is no water on the trail which descends 2,400 ft/720 m in thick lodgepole pine forest. At the river, filled with grey glacial water, the trail turns downstream, going past the warden cabin to McArthur Creek campground. Parks Canada states that tents are to put up 100m from the water.

[6- George Mercer Dawson in May 1885]


The Ottertail River was named by the famous topographic surveyor George Dawson (1849-1901) who learned the name of this river from the local aboriginals. Apparently, Ottertail was his understanding of their name.





[7- Buffalo-berry plant]


While walking down the trail it is important to be on the lookout for bears eating buffalo berries. Bears eat these to fatten themselves for winter. This year the berries were late in ripening due to a cold spring.

For hikers planning on going on through to McArthur Pass to Lake O’Hara via the McArthur Creek Valley Trail, a special permit is to be obtained for access after August 15th. McArthur Valley is known for its rich buffalo berry patches and larger populations of black bears and grizzly bears. This trail is closed every year from May 1 to August 15 to protect Grizzly habitat and avoid problems. When it is open there is a quota system for its use. This trail is not maintained and good route finding and wilderness skills are essential. The permits are to be obtained three months in advance. Restrictions include two hiking parties per week in a group size of a minimum of six to deter grizzly encounters. Camping is not permitted in McArthur Valley, nor are campfires. A camp stove may be used.


[8-Ottertail Range from McArthur’s Pass]




The McArthur Creek Campground is a backcountry campground where reservations are required from Yoho National Park, and is located in the pine forest 200m from the McArthur Creek warden cabin. The campground has 10 campsites, pit toilets and a bear pole.

McArthur Creek was named after James McArthur (1856-1925) of Alymer Quebec who performed much of the survey work along the 49th Parallel through the Canadian Rockies. McArthur helped to survey the railway through the Rockies and is also credited with ascending the first summit in the Rockies over 3050 metres.

From the McArthur Creek Campground the trail down the Ottertail fire road is an easy and scenic 15 km hike down to the trailhead located on the Trans-Canada Highway 8.4 km west of Field. A stop can be made about halfway down at Float Creek where there is a campground.


Research: peakfinder.com, ParksCanada.com, wikipedia.

Photo Credits: [1][2][3][4][6]-wikipedia, [5][8]-abacusengine CC=nc-nd-flickr, [7]-brewbooks CC=nc-sa-flickr.

Hiking Trails - Rockwall Pass Trail (Tumbling Creek Pass) - Day 9 of 11

This post belongs to the first series of an 11-day hike, which is a 11-day wilderness backpacking trip from Kananaskis, along the Continental Divide to Yoho National Park. Today’s post covers the ninth day.

Continuation of hike from Tumbling Creek Pass to Helmet Falls in Kootenay National Park
13km - 6 hours – moderate – closest town: Field, BC

71.3 miles (114.0 km) — Tumbling Pass. Elevation: 7,250 feet (2,175 metres)

[1-Near Tumbling Creek Campground with Tumbling Glacier behind]

From the campsite, the hiker does a moderate climb 375 metres (1,250 foot) up to Wolverine Plateau.

[2– wildflowers]




[3 Mt. Gray, rises 3,000 metres, marking the entrance to Wolverine Pass. This is the only break in the Rockwall for its 53 km length.]



[4-Wolverine Pass looking west]





[5-Meadows with Mt. Gray, wolverine Pass and Tumbling Glacier behind]


The trail climbs gradually for the next 5.6 km (3.5 miles) as it crosses the Rockwall Pass to the Limestone Summit, while the hiker watches out for falling rock.





[6- Limestone Summit]


The trail descends to Helmet Creek before climbing again to Limestone Summit at an elevation of 2,134.5m (7,115 feet).

[7]






[8- Limestone Pass with Rockwall on side]




Limestone Pass is next which again is a moderate climb and great views of the Rockwall. Then the trail descends 420m (1,400 feet) in 3.2km (2 miles) to Helmet Falls with glimpses of the 352m falls marking northern end of the Rockwall. While the hiker approaches the falls over an avalanche chute, the noise of the cascading water increases. The water that forms this waterfall begins from two separate sources, the Washmawapta and Sharp Glaciers. Washmawapta is a Stoney native term for “ice river”. West Washmawapta Glacier is below Helmet Mountain, 3124 m (10,250 feet).

As soon as you begin the descent to the campsite, look for an exciting view of Mt. Goodsir and Sentry Peak to the west.


[9 Helmet bridge to campground]

The trail crosses a bridge to the campsite. The Helmet Falls campsite is maintained in a natural state with a clear, cold stream flowing through it. There are 18 campsites with a pit toilet and food storage pole.



[10-Helmut Falls]







There is a short walk of 1.5 km to the base of Helmut Falls from a fork in the trail before the campsite. Here is a good place to see the Rocky Mountain Goat often in their lofty vantage points.




[11- Rocky Mountain goat with kid]





[12- Rocky Mountain Goat]




Research: Parks Canada, peakfinder.com.
Photo Credits: [1][3][4][5][6][8][9][10]-nordique-CC=flickr, [2][7]-dbuc-CC=nc-nd-flickr, [11][12]-natures calm-CC=nc-nd-flickr.

Hiking Trails - Rockwall Trail (Numa Pass Trail) - Day 8 of 11

This post belongs to the first of a series of hikes, which is a 11-day backpacking trip from Kananaskis, along the Continental Divide to Yoho National Park. Today’s post covers the eighth day.

62.2 miles (99.5 km) — Floe Lake. Elevation: 6,700 feet (2.010 metres)


[1-Floe Lake campground]









Floe Lake to Tumbling Creek Trail – difficult – 17.4 km (11 mi) – 8 hours
Elevation loss - 150 m (490 ft).

[2- Floe Lake from trail]




Dawn at Floe Lake can be impressive, as the slowly increasing light gradually lit the distant snows far to the south and then crept under a pink sky along the length of the lake to turn the gray cliffs and dull dirty snow a warm gold and brilliant white. It is a blessing to have clear sun-filled weather for the walk beneath the Rockwall.


[3-Trail to Numa Pass]



From its shores the Rockwall Trail begins, running along the base of the 25 mile (40 km) long limestone wall, with the Great Divide running along its crest. The trail has several steep ascents and descents over three passes which are hard on anyone not fit or with knee problems. The hiker will pass forested canyons, several waterfalls, flower-filled meadows and magnificent alpine scenery.



[4-Alpine flowers]




Walking north, near a warden’s cabin is a creek that flows into Floe Lake, the trail rises steeply through alpine meadows. The trail passes under the pyramid of Foster Peak, at 7,725 feet (2,317.5m) the highest point on this section of the route which is above the treeline.

[5-Wildflowers]










Gain: 315 m (1,033') to Numa Pass

63.8 miles (102.0 km) — Numa Pass. Elevation: 7,725 feet (2,317.5 metres)

The next 7km consists of steep switchbacks downward to 5,000 feet (1,500 m), passing some waterfalls to Numa Creek, where there is a bridge and a campground with 18 sites. This is a good place to stop for a lunch break as it has a pit toilet, food storage pole and a fire box. There are sites on both sides of the bridged creek that intersects the main trail.

[6- Numa Creek]





Continue on the trail for about 500 m below the campsite until you reach a signed junction, then turn left for Tumbling Pass. The elevation that was so quickly surrendered on the descent from Numa Pass will now be regained: almost 700 m in less than 5 km. The climb through the avalanche slopes can be exhausting on a hot afternoon. The forested section of the trail is not too long, and the upper part crosses a number of streams (easy fords) on open slopes that offer good views of the Ball Range. Finally, the reappearance of larch trees promises some relief from the endless switchbacks, and the trail emerges at the edge of a beautiful, level meadow. The summit of Tumbling Pass (2,210 m (7,249 ft.)) is approximately 1½ km further ahead after a short climb.

Here there are excellent views back to Foster Peak, a summit that dominates views south along the Rockwall throughout the walk.


[7– Tumbling Pass with first full view of Tumbling Glacier]






[8-Tumbling Pass further along next to Tumbling Glacier on Rockwall]





71.3 miles (114.0 km) — Tumbling Pass. Elevation: 7,250 feet (2,175 metres)
Gain: 685 m (2,247 ft) to Tumbling Pass

[9- Tumbling Glacier closeup]






[10-Tumbling Pass descending]


Descending again, the trail drops in a steep descent to 6,200 feet (1,860 m) at silt-laden Tumbling Creek where the hiker has to cross over a new aluminium bridge to the campground with 18 sites, pit toilet and a food storage pit. Here is a good place to stop to pitch a tent on the edge of a meadow.

[11-Tumbling Pass with Tumbling Glacier behind near campground]






Loss: 320 m (1,050') to Tumbling Creek



Research: Parks Canada
Photo Credits: [1][6]-Danny Cox, CC=nc-nd, flickr commons; [2][3][7][8][9][10][11]-nordique, CC=nc, flickr commons; [4][5]-dbuc CC=nd flickr commons.

Hiking Trails - Ball Pass Trail - Day 7 of 11

This post belongs to the first series of hikes, which is a 11-day backpacking trip from Kananaskis, along the Continental Divide to Yoho National Park. Today’s post covers the seventh day.

48.0 miles (76.8) — Ball Pass Jct. Campground. Elevation: 6,300 feet (1,890 metres)

[1-Mt. Ball Pass Junction Campground]

Ball Pass Junction to Floe Lake – difficult – 19km – approx. 9 hours
Elevation gain: 400 ft. (120 metres)


Before leaving Ball Pass Junction it is a good idea to fill up water bottles, as there is no water until reaching the Vermilion River. There is a long ascent to Ball Pass.

Banff National Park is finally left for Kootenay National Park at Ball Pass which lies 1.5 miles (2.4 km) and 1,000 feet (300m) above the campground. The view from the pass is dominated by Mount Ball, a distinctive, bulky peak capped with a curving white glacier.

[2-Mt. Ball Glacier]


[3-Rocky Mountain Sheep]












[4-wildflowers]


Long descent to Hawk Creek and Highway 93 is 9km. For some hikers, those with not so perfect knees will find it to be a pounding descent, while others will find it easier. The trail goes through the blackened pine trunks of the 2003 forest fires.

[5-Hawk Creek burnout]

The contrast between the black forest remnants, green regrowth and towering grey cliffs is stunning. When going through this burn area be extremely cautious during a strong wind as the dead trees can fall over.

[6-Vermilion River]







55.7 miles (89.1km) — Banff-Radium Highway. Elevation: 4,345 ft. (1,303.5 metres)

A good place to stop for lunch is at the Hwy 93 parking area (22.5 km south of the Banff-Kootenay boundary) on the banks of the glacial blue Vermilion River. There are bear proof bins for rubbish, a pit toilet and a campground.

There is a steep 11km climb to Floe Lake, over avalanche paths, over a bridge with the track climbing gradually up some long switchbacks which rise above Floe Creek, and then the last 4 to 5km where it steeply switchbacks to the lake.

[7-switchbacks to Floe Lake]





[8-Toward Rockwell]

The climb commenced through dense forest to Floe Lake.


[9-Numa Pass trail to Floe Lake]

Floe Lake is at the south end of the Rockwall, which is a 20-mile long, 3000-foot high wall of solid rock. The Rockwall Trail skirts along the bottom of it.

62.2 miles (99.5) — Floe Lake. Elevation: 6,700 feet (2,010 metres)


Floe Lake is an unbelievably beautiful timberline lake stretched out between the forest and the 3,000-foot (900m) sheer cliffs of the massive Rockwall. Beneath the cliffs lie small glaciers that in summer calve off small ice floes, hence the lake's name. A campground lies on the forested shore, a large site with many facilities, including gravel tent pads as the lake is a popular destination.


[10-Floe Lake beneath the Rockwall]








Photo Credits: [1][2][3]- totten_photos CC=nc-nd-flickr; [4]-dbuc CC=nc-nd-flickr commons, [5]- duanephoto99 CC=nd-flickr; [6][8]- nordique CC=flickr; [7][9][10]-Scott Rollins w permission >see link in sidebar.